All members of the Team arrived in Punta Arenas yesterday. Each had been delayed enroute by as little as six hours and as much as two days. Phil, who lives on the Isle of Man, found his 30 minute flight to England cancelled when snow hit. Not willing to risk a second cancellation the following day, and thus his entire trip, he chose to take the four and half hour boat ride ashore. This, combined with the subsequent train ride to Heathrow, amounted to the better part of a day. In the mean time that short flight was restored. Exhausted from hauling his duffels of gear, Phil watched it land.
It is with much joy that I report the successful arrival of my gear! My backpack, however, was soaked clean through as though it had sat out in the driving rain all night in Atlanta. Everything had to be unpacked and hung to dry. The airport in Atlanta is truly remarkable for its conveniences, layout, flow, and state of the art automation. From everything I saw it seems clear a lot of forethought went into the design of this very large, very busy facility. About the only things not considered where rain and wind. All bets are off if they see much of either. The confusion and helplessness which ensue are mindful of the scene in The Wizard of Oz where the flying monkeys ravage Dorothy and freinds.
I could have done worse. Such was the fate of Phil and Steve, who arrived without any of their gear. Both theory and promise on the part of airline representatives suggested the duffels in question to be in Madrid. Though no one could offer an eyes-on confirmation, Steve and Phil were reassured the wayward gear would arrive today in Punta Arenas. Both are presently staked out at the airport, hopeful to see their belongings on the last flight in. Absent that, they will be forced to purchase complete new sets of climbing equipment and clothing in the next five hours. The weather is ideal right now in Antarctica and it looks likely we will get the "Fly" clearance this evening. For general reference, the cost of outfitting a Climber for a high altitude arctic expedition is $3,000-$4,000.
Otherewise the Team is good. Spirits are high, and we have settled into the friendly cadence of six Ravens perched on a wire. We reported to the headquarters of Antarctic Logistics Expeditions after breakfast this morning. Their we attended the required pre-flight orientation. We sat among the other forty or so passengers, people with casue to be in Antarctica; Climbers, Trekkers, Scientists, and Penguin Watchers. The Speaker told us what to expect of our experience aboard the Ilyushin 76, with particular emphasis on the primitive nature of onboard restroom facilities. The talk also outlined the procedures for keeping urine and solid waste separate at Base Camp. Both will be flown back.
The presentation then shifted to a discussion of frost bite. It can come on quickly, but there are warning signs; numbness, white skin, a hardened wood-like feel to the flesh. Several graphic photos drove home the point. "If you freeze part of your body," we were instructed,"don´t thaw it unless you are sure you can keep it thawed." The Speaker said that a medical tent was available with treatment to stabilize various forms of injury until the afflicted could fly out. However, no special flight would be ordered outside the normal once a week IL76 visit unless the condition were life threatening. To frame this last point she stated that frost bite and broken appendages are not considered life threatening. Anyone who had come still thinking this is just another tourist excursion left the talk in a state of informed sobriety.
After lunching with Guy and Doug, I set out to find some cold medicine. I am 95% over a cold that kept me out of training during the final week of preparation, but a persistent runny nose continues. As I speak no spanish, the signs mean nothing. I am effectively both illiterate and mute. Still, many words can be broken down to familiar clues. This combined with a willingness to mime form both my communication and low level entertainment for those I engage. My "Guy with a head cold" was a real crowd pleaser at the Farmacia.
I walked around Punta Arenas for an hour or so. December is their spring time here. Yet the chill wind coming off the sea is biting. Sporatic snow flurries came and went without accumulation. A lone penguin stood, breast to the sun, on the beach. I wished I had my camera with me. Soon a couple happened along and, posing for ever-closer photos, drove the bird back into the brine.
Punta Arenas is that tired but kind city one finds in corners where dogs wear no collar and few people choose to live. There is a stately park in the center of the city. Vendors of inexpensive handcrafts man booths around the perimeter. At the center is a massive bronze statue commemorating Hernando De Magallanes. The elements have fatigued it´s finish to a mackeral grey, save the toe of one figure rubbed to a shiny lustere by the many who believe it to be good luck. Any Everest expedition visits the prayer wheels for similar reasons prior to ascent. It cannot hurt. I rubbed the toe.
Bring home some penguin jerky!
ReplyDeletemike