December 7, 2010 The move to Low Camp

Broken clouds brought enough sunlight to allow us room to think about something other than thawing fingers and toes.  For the last two days, we have paced the perimeter of camp, in an effort to generate blood flow during those periods where one can no longer reside in a sleeping bag.  I'm rationing my chemical hand warmers for High Camp, but decided to use one alternated between feet to derive some temporary comfort.  It was glorious. 
We packed sleds and packed this morning, starting up the route to Low Camp.  It was quite cold at first.  A stationary cloud shadowed us.  As we approached the edge of the shadow, it moved away, keeping us shaded.  Yet the exertion generated enough body heat that feeling returned to my hands and feet after 40 minutes.  Then the cloud shifted and we were suddenly struggling with the heat of the sun, both direct and that which was reflected from the snow.  We changed into lighter clothing layers and applied new coats of sunscreen, enjoying a snack of energy bars…for the first time comfortable in the outdoors. 
The remainder of our move consisted of a 3 mile trek up a long valley. As we set out again, that large dark cloud shifted to dim the whole of the route before us.  In an instant the temperature drooped from plus 28 degrees, to minus 5.  I added a thicker hat and gloves, not wanting to put on a heavier coat and pants, as optimism had persuaded me the cloud would once again shift.  It did not.  Occasionally, a finger on one hand or the other would ache, so I would remove that glove and hold the hand beneath my collar, against the bare skin of my neck.  This provided adequate relief without halting the team's progress. 
There was tired celebration among team members, as we pulled into Low Camp. The sun returned as we built camp - erecting tents, cutting blocks of snow to build a protective wall and fetching snow to melt for water.  It was 11:00pm by the time we ate dinner - a fabulous meal of frozen vegetables, instant potatoes and lamb shank with gravy.  I hesitate to mention the remarkable meals we had enjoyed, as doing so detracts from the central themes of hardship and sacrifice.  But facts being what they are, we eat very well, with much credit to Adventure Consultants and our guide, Doug Bates. 
The team bedded down at 12:30pm. Absent the clouds, there was plentiful daylight, even at that hour. I walked to the edge of camp, and called my love, Lin on the satellite phone.  She was pleased to hear the weather had improved, as forecast.  Indeed, there was not a breath of wind where it had raged only a day earlier.  There was a team camped next to us who have been stuck at Low Camp for the last 8 days. Lin said she had gotten the flowers I ordered.   We talked about how much we missed each other, and how wonderful it would be to come together for Christmas in Arizona.  The temperature dropped 15 degrees in the course of this conversation, as the sun eased lower on a dazzling icy horizon.