Sunday, November 21, 2010

Present History

The world came to know a remarkable young man named Jordan Romero this last spring. He,  at the age of 13, summitted Mt. Everest,  becoming the youngest person ever to do so.  Still more impressive, we learned that this Big Bear, California native has already stood atop the high summits of Africa, Europe, North America, South America, and Australia/Oceana. His first major summit was Kilimanjaro at age 9. Jordan has enjoyed much well deserved attention, guesting on the Jay Leno show, and speaking at high profile events. Many fine articles have been written about him and his achievements. The article this link will take you to details Jordan Romero’s plans to attempt Vinson Massif in December 2010. http://www.worldof22.com/2010/05/us-boy-jordan-romero-at-mount-everest.html .  So it seems we shall be sharing the ice with Jordan, a young man who will almost certainly complete the seven summits in the course of that visit. He is a fine role model for young people everywhere and lives on a trajectory that could well make him one of history’s greatest climbers.  I hope to shake his hand.    

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Meet Guy.

I was listening to the sound of his voice, a British voice, as he spoke from his office in the Cayman Islands. "You think the answer is obvious," Guy began, "but then you don't know." I had asked him why he is doing this climb, and though he had been considering the question since I emailed it to him a few days earlier the answer still eluded him. This is typical of the altitude climbers I have met. While most people would require a clear rational motivation for undertaking a difficult and often dangerous task, the altitude climber does not. If anything, he seems that much the better for the lack of such encumbrances. "I love to travel," Guy offered in the tone of a man headed out on a fall foliage tour.

I will meet Guy for the first time when our team rendezvous' in Punta Arenas on December first. He is 36,and engaged to be married, having proposed to his fiancee on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Originally from the UK, Guy lived and worked for a number of years in Tokyo. It was during this time he took a love for Trekking to the next level. After attending a mountaineering course in the Swiss Alps, Guy set about an ambitious effort to climb the highest summit on each continent. Attempts on Denali and Elbrus were rebuffed by the horrific weather too typical of both. But Guy summitted Aconcagua (the high summit for South America, 22,841 ft) and Kilimanjaro. In 2004 he made a trip to climb some of the peaks on the Antarctic Penninsula. "It was the best trip ever," he told me. Guy spoke of the remoteness, the pristine nature, the solitude of Antarctica., and the reverence in his voice explained much of why he is returning.

"If you are successful and summit Vinson Massif, what will this experience mean to you thirty years from now," I asked.
"A sense of achievement. Something only a small number of people have done. An experience that will not fade," he answered.
I asked Guy if he was a bit of a novelty around Cayman, going to Antarctica, climbing these mountains. He told me that, ironically, two other people from Cayman will be in Antarctica the same time as he. One is working on a Scientific study, the other is going to attempt driving across the continent in some kind of experimental eco-car. I felt bad for Guy. Then it occurred to me that I know two climbers from my home town who have already been there and done that. "It's a good thing we aren't doing this for the fame," I offered. "Yes," he agreed.

The produce is selling well.

Dear Readers, I recently discovered the "Stat" feature of Blogspot. It seems the people behind this resource have been quietly cataloging page views per article on a daily, weekly, and monthly basis. What's more, I can also pull up a map of the world which reveals, in shades of green, where my Readers come from! I must say you all are a far flung group. The largest concentration of Readers come from North America, but there are curious concentrations of you in Russia and Brazil. It appears the Germans will have nothing to do with me, and I get big virtual yawn from the French. But this is easily offset by the single Reader I have from the Isle of Man.

I learned as an Improv Actor how to play to the crowd, and I am shameless about doing so. As there are numerous aspects of altitude climbing that might grab a person's imagination I am naturally curious which articles have received the most attention. And there is a clear winner. Logging in four times as many page views as the next most popular entry in my Blog, "The Shallot: A Haiku" is what the people want. This would appear to be the case outside my Blog as well. This piece is presently the number one Google search result for "Haiku and Shallot."  This is, admittedly, a fairly narrow search. But hey.

I love that! Probably because I love the random parts of life; like the fact that a giant inflatable gorilla is suppose to make me want to purchase an automobile. But I am irretrievably committed to this climb, dear friends,  and so cannot shift my focus of fancy to fibrous consumables. "Ode to Broccoli Crown" will have to wait.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

The Bees

I was recently asked about how I handle the situation when things go wrong on a high mountain.  Because I tend to think in analogies, the true story of an experience I had as a child came to mind.  I took the time several years ago to write this story out, so really I'm cheating a bit by inserting it here.  But this account reveals the answer to that inquiry, as well as the answer's origins, so I could not pass it up. 

The Bees
I remember how good it felt to be five years old and digging up the side of a dirt hill.  Though I've since time mucked about in the dirt on various occasions for various causes, at no time have I known the gratification that use to come from digging in the dirt  purely the sake of digging in the dirt.  And so I was an eager accomplice when Denny Pearl came to our door that August day in 1968.  After telling me what he had in mind, Denny asked my mother if I could come out to play in the field.  She consented, no doubt reasoning that two five-year-olds couldn't get into much trouble just playing in the field behind our house, even if one of them was Denny Pearl.  But Denny, at the tender age of five, had already learned the art of half-truths.  Having stolen his father's shovel and hidden it behind our garage, Denny didn't plan on just playing in the field.  We were going to move some dirt. 

Skipping out the front door with coat half on, I followed Denny around the back of our garage where he retrieved the suspect shovel.  We crossed the field to the dirt bank and, after a brief discussion of the merits of digging in one place versus another, lashed into the dry sandy soil with a sense of purpose.  The heavy shovel blade carved into the hillside creating a caving effect whereby large walls of dirt would tumble at our feet, raising a dust cloud that we imagined looking something like a forest fire.  Denny took off his coat and fanned it in the dust trying to send smoke signals to some distant tribe of Digging in the Dirt Indians.  We climbed up the dirt bank and jumped off into the pile we had made.  In the fashion of five-year-olds everywhere we were then swept up by the More Is Better philosophy and set about making a still larger dirt pile.  It was this same thinking that led to the notion that two shovels might move more dirt than one, and thus I sped off across the field to steal my dad's shovel.

I didn't get far.  Perhaps thirty yards away I tripped and fell to the ground, landing hard on my elbows.  As I did, the surface gave way beneath them, caving in an underground nest of yellow jackets.  For their part, the hornets weren't pleased with this, and I was swiftly and summarily swarmed. I never saw the hornets.  The first sting hit my forehead and as I reached up, smarting from the pain, others followed.  My eyes clenched shut, I clawed at my own face and spun about miserably.  I remember the incessant white noise of their collective buzzing all around me. The pain was everywhere at once.  Bees were going up my pant legs.  Bees were in my hair.  Bees climbed inside my jacket and as I tried to take it off bees jammed in the zipper (this I would cite for years to come as reason number one why I shouldn't have to put on a jacket before going out to play).  I screamed and thrashed wildly at the air. I ran in dusty circles hoping I was headed for home.  I thought I had a problem.

But my problems were just beginning.  At this point Denny Pearl realized what was going on and, stricken with heroism, resolved to rescue me.  And while his intentions were good, Denny's five-year-old logic was fouled.  I don't say this because Denny would be entering a fracas with angry bees that might well sting him.  By and large most five-year-olds haven't got the sense God gave a dung beetle when it comes to self-preservation.  I say Denny's logic was fouled because his rescue plan involved smashing the bees with his father's shovel.

whampf! I felt the shovelhead strike flat across my shoulder blades.  I went down hard in the dust.  Fighting to my hands and knees, I stood while beating my own head furiously as the bees, now tangled in my hair, seemed be working there with particular enthusiasm.  “Don’t!  Don’t! Don’t!" was about all I could manage to scream.  I suppose Denny thought I was talking to the bees.

Kong! The shovel connected hard with my hip and down I went.  Again and again I struggled to my feet only to be beaten back into the dust by Denny and that shovel.  I suppose it was a good thing the bees finally turned on Denny because had they not he might have beaten me to death.  Looking back now it occurs to me that this would be the first time I came to know a friend as an enemy and an enemy as a friend.  Some lessons we learn young.  I understand the Chinese use the same written symbol to represent both crisis and opportunity.  Who knows, maybe Confucius was swarmed too.

Somewhere in the moments that followed, the bees grew tired and bored with stinging Denny and me.  Really, there couldn't have been much sport in it.  I ran home, where my mother met me at the front door with a hairbrush in her hand.  Though she clearly knew something was wrong, it was not readily apparent what it was.  I was screaming and crying, speaking only the language of a wounded creature.  Noting a bee in my hair she swatted it away with a flick of the brush.  Then she saw another, and another, and many many more all writhing about in an impossible tangle of hair and insect.  Horrified, she began beating my head with the hairbrush.  Of this I did not complain, glad for having traded down from the shovel.  Instead, I clutched desperately at my chest.  The bees that had crawled up my coat were still having at me.  My Mother moved the zipper only a short distance before it became further jammed with bees.  Grasping the collar opening with both hands she then ripped open my jacket, releasing a small cloud of Bees.

In rapid succession I was thrown into the shower, taken to the doctor, given a shot of something, smeared with an unpleasant ointment, and fed ice cream in quantities that clearly indicated my Mother had been as scared as I had.  In the final tally I was stung eighty-seven times, and for his trouble Denny was stung one hundred and eleven.

The other day I tried to look Denny up.  I imagined that he would be a Microsoft Licensing Agent not far from his hometown of Kirkland, Washington.  Or maybe, I thought, Denny is still digging in the dirt, running a construction company of his own.  Glancing at recent headlines, it occurred to me that Denny might even be in law enforcement somewhere in California.  In the end I wasn't able to find Denny, but in some strange way this was both a disappointment and a comfort.

Time collapsing

I feel time growing short now. I leave for Antarctica in less than three weeks.  Anything that comes up must be done in these three weeks. Things that would have been done four and five weeks from now are also crowding into this time. I will inventory my gear, spreading it out on the garage floor like a yard sale.  I will host Thanksgiving. Over the next three weeks I will consume fifteen salads and do ten loads of laundry.  My son, Chase will turn 17.  Because I have a phobia about mail I will go to my mailbox only three times. I will pack sixty pounds of water up 8,400 vertical feet of trail. The days will grow shorter, the workouts longer. I will start to miss my loved ones, even as they sit across from me at the kitchen table. I will load Christmas music on the I-pod I intend to take along. I will ask myself why I am doing this as the inconvenience of my departure weighs heavy. There will be no answer, as there never has been. I will take my Father to a Doctor's appointment. I will clear the leaves from the deck. I will work long days at my job to meet as many commitments as possible. I will spend time allaying my Mother's fears. I will wear a red flannel shirt. I will carry a dog biscuit in my pocket in case that aggressive Labrador comes out to bark at me on walks. I will consume a half gallon of half and half. I will finish burning down a holiday scented candle I lite each morning and evening. I will play a video game with my son. (It is called Nazi Zombies. Technically, Zombies are already dead so we aren't hurting anyone. And Nazi's? C'mon. If there was ever justification for heating up a 50 caliber machine gun Nazi Zombies are it!)I will deep fry a turkey. I will listen the George Winston's Autumn album. I will drag a tire-laden piece of plywood around on the streets of my neighborhood. I will steal away with my love, Lin,  to Lopez Island. I will sell my drum set. I will mumble to myself without thinking about who might be watching.  I will Skype with my son, Trevor, in Chicago.  I will purchase an audio book about Sir Ernest Shackleton. I will scrutinize the financial markets. I will scrutinize the details of the climb. I will scrutinize the lines beneath my eyes. I will become irritable as I realize I can't possible complete everything before leaving. Then, as I square up to say Goodbye, it will all fall away.                                                                                                                                                          

Saturday, November 6, 2010

(F x Y) + (K x X) = Belief

The above diagram came up in the course of a Google Images search for "Belief." There were better images I could have chosen, images of children looking skyward or the Japanese sign for Belief, but I find myself in a left-brain mood. Curious, I clicked on the image to learn more. This took me to a software coding site where it was part of a discussion about video game player skill levels.   
"Rather than assuming a single fixed skill for each player, the system characterizes its belief using a bell-curve belief distribution (also referred to as Gaussian) which is uniquely described by its mean μ (mu) ("peak point") and standard deviation σ (sigma) ("spread"). An exemplary belief is shown in the figure," it read. As best I understand this theory, I disagree with it entirely. 

I have been thinking a lot about the idea of Belief lately; how it works, what it is made of. Mountain climbing, after all, requires a fair bit of Belief. I see Belief as being quite different from optimism, which is also critical to success in mountain climbing. I have never met a Summiter who was a pessimist. Optimism is a sense that things will work out regardless. I fell into a crevasse once and, hanging from a rope, thought "boy, this is going to make for a great story later on." That is optimism. But belief is different.

I spent Christmas of 2006 with my sister, Noelle, and her family in Anchorage, Alaska. In the restless space between Christmas and New Years, my brother in-law, Ty, suggested we make a winter attempt of Wolverine Mountain in the nearby Chugach Range. I had never camped in the snow, but knew we would be doing plenty of it during the attempt we planned to make on Denali the following spring. This seemed like a good chance to get my feet wet frozen. We packed and left for Wolverine.

Ty and I climbed all morning with heavy packs before stopping to set up camp. The daylight hours during Alaskan winters are few and dim. Thus we started for the summit at 3:00pm with headlamps on. But the weather turned nasty and our progress slowed. High winds were gusting and a remarkable amount of snow accompanied them. My body felt heavier and heavier as the horizontal snow pelted and stuck to me. As we reached an exposed ridge a series of powerful blasts thrashed us. We dropped to our bellies to avoid being blown off the mountain, but even then felt it prying like a tool that removes tics. We stood for a moment when the wind rested. "We better bugger off this ridge," I said as another blast hit and we again dropped to our bellies.   All that night we took turns shoveling snow off the tent and trying to fortify it from within against the tempest without. All the while I kept looking at Ty, trying to read any sign of worry on his face. There was none. I believed we were going to be fine. This belief was based 100% on faith, my faith in Ty. Ty also believed we were going to be fine. His belief was based 100% on knowledge. Ty had twice climbed Mt McKinley and seen much worse than this along the way. Though we would later learn that this blizzard was sufficiently strong enough to knock out power to half of the community of Eagle River, our separate beliefs allowed us to experience that night with a giddy haunted house excitement.

As I recall other times in my life where I experienced belief it occurs to me that each constituted some combination of Faith and Knowledge. The curious thing to me is that they all felt the same. It is as though there are no degrees of belief.. It is an absolute. If it is mixed in an eight ounce glass and you remove a single teaspoon you no longer have belief. Once the glass is full you can try adding more but it will just run over onto the counter. In the end belief is a cocktail mixed with varying portions of faith and knowledge, yet always tastes the same.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

The Answer Rhymes

A Reader recently noticed the unlikely coincidence of my home town, (Bellingham, Washington) being sister city to Punta Arenas, Chile. So how, I wonder, did Bellingham ever become a sister city to Punta Arenas, he queried. I contacted the local sister city representative for Punta Arenas, a very nice woman named Teresa. She said she did not know the answer but would inquire at a meeting that evening. The next day she sent me an email stating that the connection had been established by a Bellingham company named Trillium during a period in which they had some business dealings in Punta Arenas. This made sense enough to me, but I wanted to know more about the circumstances so I set about researching old newspaper articles and news releases on the interweb (I like to say Interweb instead of Internet because my teenage sons hate it. It makes their skin crawl.).

Examine the photo at the top of this page. You are looking at a stand of Lenga, a strain of beech tree found only at the southern tip of Chile.  Lenga is categorized as a "rare" wood. Less dense than most hardwoods, it is easy to work with and finishes with a warm reddish brown color.  It is among the preferred woods for high end mouldings, making it quite valuable commercially. Trillium could not believe their good fortune when, in 1993, they were able to purchase 680,000 acres of rare old growth Lenga forest at the southern tip of Chile.

Over the years Trillium had become a remarkably successful organization, developing resorts, commercial districts, neighborhoods and a popular shopping mall.  They were excellent at what they did and, as if to make the point of how bright their future was, in 1995, they bought controlling interest in a sun glasses company (Gargoyles). But the true roots of Trillium were set in logging, an industry where they had already awaken the ire of environmentalist.  Indeed, in the process of banking their early millions, Trillium had come under fire for logging practices which showed little regard for the ecology left behind.  This would  haunt them a world away.

I recall a lunch meeting I had in 1996 with a VP of Trillium. He described to me the perfectly aligned rows of Lenga. They would be so easy to harvest, so profitable on the open market. By his estimation they had practically stolen the asset, and a tiny bit of spittle danced on his lower lip as he imagined aloud the inartistic harvesting to come. "There is some opposition by environmentalists," he added, waving a hand as if to shoo an insect.   

In short order some 200 environmental groups from Chile, Argentina, and the United States rallied to oppose the project. Still, Trillium pressed on. In 1998 they purchased a saw mill in Punta Arenas, Chile with a portion of the 30 million dollars borrowed from Portland, Oregon based Capital Consultants.  The mill needed substantial improvements to accommodate the harvest of the Lenga.  It would be a much larger mill with many more jobs for the local populace, a fact which Trillium hoped might ameliorate the otherwise hostile sentiment toward them. During this time Trillium established the sister city connection between Bellingham and Punta Arenas.   This was a rare foray into public relations for Trillium, one which cost and accomplished nothing.  Siblings will quarrel. Trillium's effort to log the old growth Lenga forest  was confounded by lawsuits and permitting delays for the next two years. Over this time they were demonized in the popular press as representing all that greed, hubris, and arrogance might manifest in a company. Think of Goldman Sachs today.

Then, in 2000, the Securities Exchange Commission  sued Capital Consultants. Alleging the firm to be nothing more than a Ponzi scheme, the SEC accused Capital Consultants of losing some 350 million dollars belonging to its clients and concealing the loss. The CEO pleaded guilty to fraud charges, had a stroke, and has since been living in a Portland nursing home. A court-appointed receiver took over management of the remaining assets in 2002.  The loan to Trillium, now well in arrears and backed by the collateral of the Lenga forest, was auctioned off to a Wall Street bank for about 33 cents on the dollar. The call for collateral was immediately enforced and Trillium surrendered their interest in the forest in exchange for the outstanding loan. 

The new owner of the forest examined it's value, considered the costs of extracting that value and, as wiser organizations tend to do, harvested the tuition paid by those who had gone before it. In a move that surprised all parties concerned, that Wall Street bank announced in 2004 that it would donate all 680,000 acres of old growth Lenga forest to a conservation group. In a press release dated December 12, 2004 they stated given the unspoiled nature of the tract of land, the firm determined that this was a unique opportunity to permit the ecologically important key features of the land to be conserved for the future, reflecting the views of the firm's senior management.

That firm was Goldman Sachs.