Time collapsing

I feel time growing short now. I leave for Antarctica in less than three weeks.  Anything that comes up must be done in these three weeks. Things that would have been done four and five weeks from now are also crowding into this time. I will inventory my gear, spreading it out on the garage floor like a yard sale.  I will host Thanksgiving. Over the next three weeks I will consume fifteen salads and do ten loads of laundry.  My son, Chase will turn 17.  Because I have a phobia about mail I will go to my mailbox only three times. I will pack sixty pounds of water up 8,400 vertical feet of trail. The days will grow shorter, the workouts longer. I will start to miss my loved ones, even as they sit across from me at the kitchen table. I will load Christmas music on the I-pod I intend to take along. I will ask myself why I am doing this as the inconvenience of my departure weighs heavy. There will be no answer, as there never has been. I will take my Father to a Doctor's appointment. I will clear the leaves from the deck. I will work long days at my job to meet as many commitments as possible. I will spend time allaying my Mother's fears. I will wear a red flannel shirt. I will carry a dog biscuit in my pocket in case that aggressive Labrador comes out to bark at me on walks. I will consume a half gallon of half and half. I will finish burning down a holiday scented candle I lite each morning and evening. I will play a video game with my son. (It is called Nazi Zombies. Technically, Zombies are already dead so we aren't hurting anyone. And Nazi's? C'mon. If there was ever justification for heating up a 50 caliber machine gun Nazi Zombies are it!)I will deep fry a turkey. I will listen the George Winston's Autumn album. I will drag a tire-laden piece of plywood around on the streets of my neighborhood. I will steal away with my love, Lin,  to Lopez Island. I will sell my drum set. I will mumble to myself without thinking about who might be watching.  I will Skype with my son, Trevor, in Chicago.  I will purchase an audio book about Sir Ernest Shackleton. I will scrutinize the financial markets. I will scrutinize the details of the climb. I will scrutinize the lines beneath my eyes. I will become irritable as I realize I can't possible complete everything before leaving. Then, as I square up to say Goodbye, it will all fall away.                                                                                                                                                          

(F x Y) + (K x X) = Belief

The above diagram came up in the course of a Google Images search for "Belief." There were better images I could have chosen, images of children looking skyward or the Japanese sign for Belief, but I find myself in a left-brain mood. Curious, I clicked on the image to learn more. This took me to a software coding site where it was part of a discussion about video game player skill levels.   
"Rather than assuming a single fixed skill for each player, the system characterizes its belief using a bell-curve belief distribution (also referred to as Gaussian) which is uniquely described by its mean μ (mu) ("peak point") and standard deviation σ (sigma) ("spread"). An exemplary belief is shown in the figure," it read. As best I understand this theory, I disagree with it entirely. 

I have been thinking a lot about the idea of Belief lately; how it works, what it is made of. Mountain climbing, after all, requires a fair bit of Belief. I see Belief as being quite different from optimism, which is also critical to success in mountain climbing. I have never met a Summiter who was a pessimist. Optimism is a sense that things will work out regardless. I fell into a crevasse once and, hanging from a rope, thought "boy, this is going to make for a great story later on." That is optimism. But belief is different.

I spent Christmas of 2006 with my sister, Noelle, and her family in Anchorage, Alaska. In the restless space between Christmas and New Years, my brother in-law, Ty, suggested we make a winter attempt of Wolverine Mountain in the nearby Chugach Range. I had never camped in the snow, but knew we would be doing plenty of it during the attempt we planned to make on Denali the following spring. This seemed like a good chance to get my feet wet frozen. We packed and left for Wolverine.

Ty and I climbed all morning with heavy packs before stopping to set up camp. The daylight hours during Alaskan winters are few and dim. Thus we started for the summit at 3:00pm with headlamps on. But the weather turned nasty and our progress slowed. High winds were gusting and a remarkable amount of snow accompanied them. My body felt heavier and heavier as the horizontal snow pelted and stuck to me. As we reached an exposed ridge a series of powerful blasts thrashed us. We dropped to our bellies to avoid being blown off the mountain, but even then felt it prying like a tool that removes tics. We stood for a moment when the wind rested. "We better bugger off this ridge," I said as another blast hit and we again dropped to our bellies.   All that night we took turns shoveling snow off the tent and trying to fortify it from within against the tempest without. All the while I kept looking at Ty, trying to read any sign of worry on his face. There was none. I believed we were going to be fine. This belief was based 100% on faith, my faith in Ty. Ty also believed we were going to be fine. His belief was based 100% on knowledge. Ty had twice climbed Mt McKinley and seen much worse than this along the way. Though we would later learn that this blizzard was sufficiently strong enough to knock out power to half of the community of Eagle River, our separate beliefs allowed us to experience that night with a giddy haunted house excitement.

As I recall other times in my life where I experienced belief it occurs to me that each constituted some combination of Faith and Knowledge. The curious thing to me is that they all felt the same. It is as though there are no degrees of belief.. It is an absolute. If it is mixed in an eight ounce glass and you remove a single teaspoon you no longer have belief. Once the glass is full you can try adding more but it will just run over onto the counter. In the end belief is a cocktail mixed with varying portions of faith and knowledge, yet always tastes the same.

The Answer Rhymes

A Reader recently noticed the unlikely coincidence of my home town, (Bellingham, Washington) being sister city to Punta Arenas, Chile. So how, I wonder, did Bellingham ever become a sister city to Punta Arenas, he queried. I contacted the local sister city representative for Punta Arenas, a very nice woman named Teresa. She said she did not know the answer but would inquire at a meeting that evening. The next day she sent me an email stating that the connection had been established by a Bellingham company named Trillium during a period in which they had some business dealings in Punta Arenas. This made sense enough to me, but I wanted to know more about the circumstances so I set about researching old newspaper articles and news releases on the interweb (I like to say Interweb instead of Internet because my teenage sons hate it. It makes their skin crawl.).

Examine the photo at the top of this page. You are looking at a stand of Lenga, a strain of beech tree found only at the southern tip of Chile.  Lenga is categorized as a "rare" wood. Less dense than most hardwoods, it is easy to work with and finishes with a warm reddish brown color.  It is among the preferred woods for high end mouldings, making it quite valuable commercially. Trillium could not believe their good fortune when, in 1993, they were able to purchase 680,000 acres of rare old growth Lenga forest at the southern tip of Chile.

Over the years Trillium had become a remarkably successful organization, developing resorts, commercial districts, neighborhoods and a popular shopping mall.  They were excellent at what they did and, as if to make the point of how bright their future was, in 1995, they bought controlling interest in a sun glasses company (Gargoyles). But the true roots of Trillium were set in logging, an industry where they had already awaken the ire of environmentalist.  Indeed, in the process of banking their early millions, Trillium had come under fire for logging practices which showed little regard for the ecology left behind.  This would  haunt them a world away.

I recall a lunch meeting I had in 1996 with a VP of Trillium. He described to me the perfectly aligned rows of Lenga. They would be so easy to harvest, so profitable on the open market. By his estimation they had practically stolen the asset, and a tiny bit of spittle danced on his lower lip as he imagined aloud the inartistic harvesting to come. "There is some opposition by environmentalists," he added, waving a hand as if to shoo an insect.   

In short order some 200 environmental groups from Chile, Argentina, and the United States rallied to oppose the project. Still, Trillium pressed on. In 1998 they purchased a saw mill in Punta Arenas, Chile with a portion of the 30 million dollars borrowed from Portland, Oregon based Capital Consultants.  The mill needed substantial improvements to accommodate the harvest of the Lenga.  It would be a much larger mill with many more jobs for the local populace, a fact which Trillium hoped might ameliorate the otherwise hostile sentiment toward them. During this time Trillium established the sister city connection between Bellingham and Punta Arenas.   This was a rare foray into public relations for Trillium, one which cost and accomplished nothing.  Siblings will quarrel. Trillium's effort to log the old growth Lenga forest  was confounded by lawsuits and permitting delays for the next two years. Over this time they were demonized in the popular press as representing all that greed, hubris, and arrogance might manifest in a company. Think of Goldman Sachs today.

Then, in 2000, the Securities Exchange Commission  sued Capital Consultants. Alleging the firm to be nothing more than a Ponzi scheme, the SEC accused Capital Consultants of losing some 350 million dollars belonging to its clients and concealing the loss. The CEO pleaded guilty to fraud charges, had a stroke, and has since been living in a Portland nursing home. A court-appointed receiver took over management of the remaining assets in 2002.  The loan to Trillium, now well in arrears and backed by the collateral of the Lenga forest, was auctioned off to a Wall Street bank for about 33 cents on the dollar. The call for collateral was immediately enforced and Trillium surrendered their interest in the forest in exchange for the outstanding loan. 

The new owner of the forest examined it's value, considered the costs of extracting that value and, as wiser organizations tend to do, harvested the tuition paid by those who had gone before it. In a move that surprised all parties concerned, that Wall Street bank announced in 2004 that it would donate all 680,000 acres of old growth Lenga forest to a conservation group. In a press release dated December 12, 2004 they stated given the unspoiled nature of the tract of land, the firm determined that this was a unique opportunity to permit the ecologically important key features of the land to be conserved for the future, reflecting the views of the firm's senior management.

That firm was Goldman Sachs.          

Half the fun.

The logistics of each climb often include some novel component. For Aconcagua it was the Muleteers we hired to pack our provisions the many miles up a dry valley to the point where we would begin the climb. On Kilimanjaro it was the army of Porters, 19, we were required to hire as terms of our permit. On Denali we used three small aircraft with skies to get on and off the Kahiltna Glacier.

The most logistically challenging aspect of this attempt on Vinson Massif is transporting our team and a considerable load of provisions from Punta Arenas, Chile some 2,174 miles to the interior of Antarctica. The distance is too great, the cargo too heavy, and the conditions too severe for most conventional aircraft. Fortunately, the Soviet Union had the same problem many years earlier as it struggled to move military equipment in and out remote locations where they officially had no military presence. They needed a medium range, heavy load cargo jet that could handle harsh conditions and rough landings. To this end they created the Ilyushin 76 (pictured above).

The Ilyushin 76 measures 152 feet long and has a wingspan of 165 feet. Powered by four turbojet engines, it can carry a maximum payload of 114,640 lbs. Fully laden, it has a range of about 2,700 miles. As the round trip is 4,348 miles we will need to carry many barrels of jet fuel as cargo. This will enable the Ilyushin 76 to return to Punta Arenas after depositing us on the ice.

Prior to 1985, there was no established means for flying into Anarctica's interior. In that year, Antarctic Network International (ANI) was formed.  Later purchased by Antarctic Logistics Expeditions (ALE), this company now provides transportation to Researchers, South Pole Trekkers, Penguin Observers,  Mountain Climbers, and the participants of an actual Marathon run on the open ice. By the way, it costs $16,000 to run in that Marathon and you don't even get a T-shirt.

We will be relying heavily on ALE in the course of this expedition. After the four and half hour flight from Punta Arenas our team will dig in and wait for a Twin Otter to arrive. This plane, also operated by ALE, will fly us another forty five minutes inland to the base of Vinson Massif.

Regardless of the outcome of our climb, there is one thing quite certain; we will be using some really cool equipment!

Training at a molecular level.

The downside of going to exotic places is the vast array of exotic diseases that typically come with them. Malaria was a serious concern when I went to Africa. The drug taken daily to guard against Malaria, Malarone, saps a person's strength, leaving him want of a nap. This is problematic for a Climber who is on the move. With some frequency it also produces psychotropic dreams at night. A Climber I know awoke from one such dream convinced he was lying in a pool of blood and clenching a knife. Did I mention we share tents?  In my own Malarone nightmare I dreamed I was kissing Madeleine Albright. Not just a peck either. It is a testament to just how disturbing this dream was that, even in the company of my Tentmate's homocidal dream-world confession,  I chose not to share it.

Some treatments come in the form of Vaccines,  like UP109AB for Yellow Fever. Yellow Fever is such a serious threat in some countries that one must carry a card certifying her vaccination before being allowed to enter. For anyone who has had Mono, a body feels pretty much the same for the ten days following vaccination. Others, like VIVOTIF BERNA  for Typhoid Fever, are living disabled virus in tiny capsules that are kept in the refrigerator while one takes doses every other day. Some of us are accustomed to living things in our refrigerators but this is especially creepy.  While there is a vaccine for Rabies, unless you will be working in direct contact with various mammals the CDC prescribes prevention as the primary approach. Do not feed the monkeys. Do not pet the dogs. Keep your fingers away from Glen Beck's  mouth.

Some Vaccines are so basic the CDC would suggest you have them before going to your mailbox. Vaccines like MMR (measles/mumps/rubella), DPT (diptheria/pertussis/tetanus), and Poliovirus fall into this category. The next line of defense would include Hepatitis A and B vaccines, which are strongly recommended for travel to Asia or anywhere south of the United States. But the most immediate biological threat to a high-altitude Climber are the organisms which bring on diarrhea. Hydration is all-important in the fight to ward off serious altitude conditions. It is also central to the prevention of frostbite and freezing. Thus a relatively harmless bout of diarrhea at sea level can be fatal at high altitude. With unsanitary conditions being the norm at high camps one must be diligent in the preparation of food and water. Compulsive hand washing is a Darwinian virtue. But for those times when a Climber finds herself afflicted just the same, there is no substitute for CIPRO.  I suffered a middle of the night episode while climbing on Kilimanjaro. Weak and shaky, I returned to my tent and began a  course of CIPRO. The next day I was able to continue up the mountain, summitting two days later.

The site for the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is a saved web page on my browser. For someone outside the medical community this might be a cause for concern. But the far-flung places I find myself each have their own set of challenges, both topographic and biological. I checked the site recently for my upcoming trip. First I looked into Chile. The CDC  recommends, in addition to the routine vaccinations, travelers to Chile be vaccinated for Hep A & B, and Typhoid Fever. For the temperate regions of Chile they also caution against Dengue Fever, a disease contracted by mosquito bite. Fair enough. Then I checked for Antarctica. It would seem that anything a person is going to have in Antarctica he must bring with him. This much is true of disease as well. Aside from those afflictions passed from human to human, most other cases of sickness involve diseases contracted prior to arriving at Antarctica. The CDC recommends travelers to Antarctica have the routine vaccines of MMR, DPT, and poliovirus, plus Hep A and B.   ...and don't eat under-cooked penguin meat.

It's not the end of the world, but ...oh, wait, it IS the end of the world!

The first step in my journey will involve a series of flights starting in Bellingham, Washington and concluding in Punta Arenas, Chile. All told, I will be living in airplanes and airports for two days. I do not look forward to this part.  It will be long, uncomfortable and boring. Though I am typically an upbeat guy, I spend a fair bit of energy coaching my expectations down before departing on such marathon flight  itineraries. By the time I actually get on the first jet I am easily delighted. "My seat is also a flotation device?!! THAT is amazing!" Once in a while I am genuinely taken by surprise with something wonderful. While flying from Seattle to Amtserdam, enroute to Africa, I woke at 3:00am and looked out the window. We were over the polar ice cap.  A full moon lay soft luminance upon the whitescape below. I felt a deep sense of peace looking down on it; the kind of peace that lives next door to loneliness, and the quiet reflective reverence that haunts the basements of both.


You may have never heard of Punta Arenas, Chile. Prior to the planning of this trip I had not. But at least 130,000 other people have. They are the residents of this remarkable place which has labeled itself "The city at the end of the world."  Indeed, Punta Arenas is the World's southern most city.

The name Punta Arenas is translated as "Sandy Point." Which is not the sort of branding any department of tourism will stand for. So, in 1927, the city was officially renamed Magallanes, for the Straits of Magellan it overlooks. Signs were changed, T-shirts were printed ("My Grandmother went to Magallanes and all I got was this lousy shirt"), and a three act promotional play was sent out on the road, never to return. The net result was a complete absence of incoming mail for the next eleven years. In 1938 the name was changed back to Punta Arenas.

The earliest version of Punta Arenas was established in 1584 by the Spanish with the intent to prevent high seas crimes by english pirates. Given the unpromising name of Puerto Hambre (Port Starvation), the settlement withered away in just three years, its sole surviving member being rescued in 1587, ironically, by the notorious english pirate Thomas Cavendish. 

In the mid-19th century, Chile used Punta Arenas as a penal colony and a disciplinary posting for military personnel with "problematic" behavior (Don't ask, don't tell). Various prisoner mutinys arose as demands for aid to the godless and the sick erupted into violence, most typically resulting in the destruction of  the church and hospital. Between 1890 and 1940 this area became one of the world's most important sheep-raising regions. Prosperity arrived with the California gold rush, as Punta Arenas became an important trade center for Clipper ships sailing to and from. Today this city is the location of Chile's principal oil reserves, and a  modern methanol plant. Though sheep and cattle remain an important part of the region's agricultural production, tourism, fisheries, and Magallanes University also contribute to this diverse and vibrant economy.

 Punta Arenas is located at Latitude 53 degrees South, making it the north American equivalent of Jasper National Park in Alberta, Canada (or Liverpool, UK for you Beatles fans). The seasonal temperature in Punta Arenas is greatly moderated by its proximity to the ocean, with average lows in July of 30 degrees F and highs in January of 57 F. Perhaps the most distinctive characteristic of the city's climate are it's powerful summer winds, strong enough that city officials put up ropes downtown to assist those on foot.

Punta Arenas, Chile (The City at the end of the world)  has two sister cities;
Split, Croatia (The City of division)
Bellingham, Washington (The City of subdued excitement)   ...my home town.

The Shallot. A Haiku.

"You know how I feel
  
about Shallots," I told her.  
 
"I do not trust 'em."