Vinson Massif was first climbed by a U.S. expedition team sponsored by the American Alpine Club. They reached the summit at 11:30am on December 18th 1966. Since then approximately 1,000 climbers have followed. I have a poster of one of them hanging on the wall in my office. The heavily clothed climber has his back to the camera. The lifeline he has been belayed out to the summit on connects his waist harness to the foreground. Wind swept snow strafes the lesser and mostly unnamed peaks below him. Leaning on his ice axe, his posture conveys a sense of peace. "I wanna be that Guy," I'll often comment to whichever Client has made the mistake of inquiring about the photo. I caught myself making this inherently sexist statement the other day and attempted to repair the moment. "Though I suppose that could be a woman," I added. "I mean, I've met many fine female climbers. In which case, I suppose, I want to be that woman." I cannot overstate the awkwardness of the moment that followed, but take refuge in the hope that it will be lost in the muddled recollection of the fumbling attempt I made, just prior, to explain my rationale for doing this climb. It would seem most Climbers have a hard time assembling the rationale for going to Vinson. By contrast to the approximate 1,000 total summits of this little- known mountain, Everest has seen 2,050 people stand on its hat, and Kilimanjaro celebrates about 11,000 summits per year! Vinson Massif, rising to 16,048 feet, is not a high altitude "trophy." With many much taller mountains available under more accessible circumstances, those longing to tickle the ozone would not choose Vinson. This may be part of the reason for its low total summit count. As well, Vinson Massif is not a known name outside the climbing community. The Matterhorn would be a better choice for raising an eyebrow at some social gathering, though its 9,500ft summit is easily dwarfed by Vinson. Climate might be another explanation. The warmest month of the Antarctic summer, December, sees an average inland temperature of -20 F. This type of cold requires some pretty special equipment and thus the carrying of very heavy loads. Unlike Kilimanjaro and Everest, there are no Porters to carry gear in Antarctica so the level of fitness is particularly demanding. Climbers must also consider the time element of any expedition; time away from family, time away from work, time spent in difficult environments. This would be a strike against Vinson. Owing largely to the logistics of getting to and from the mountain, a Vinson Massif attempt takes about three weeks, door to door. Of course risk is always a consideration. Though I cannot find a single reference to any climbing fatalities ever on Vinson Massif, it was, just the same, ranked 7th among the world's 11 most dangerous mountains in a recent article by Matador Trips (http://matadortrips.com/11-most-dangerous-mountains-in-the-world-for-climbers). Everest ranked 9th, and Denali 10th. The rational behind this placement was the extraordinary remoteness of Vinson, making anything outside self-rescue a non-option. But for all of this, the most compelling reason for a Climber to not attempt Vinson Massif is money. Second only to an Everest expedition, the price for attempting Vinson Massif is a remarkably high number (more on this later).
So there you have a long list of the reasons one would not climb Vinson, all the things it is not. Yet 1,000 people have climbed Vinson, and if you include those who tried but did not summit we are talking about perhaps 2,200 otherwise rational individuals who have found some reason which overwhelmed all of the above. I find that fascinating. As is my habit, I will be asking each Climber I come in contact with on this expedition "Why are you climbing this mountain?" Until then I shall speculate, and here, dear Readers, is my speculation. I have written in the past about the two profiles into which all Mountain Climbers fall; The Mountain Lover and The Summiter. The Mountain Lover is all about the experience of climbing, the beauty of the surroundings, the time spent away from things that remind him of modern society. Vinson would have much to offer such a person. Very few humans have been to this part of the world. Those who have were strictly regulated by a body of rules that take the notion of "Leave no Trace" to a level seen nowhere else on the planet. The Antarctic Treaty System established in 1959 by the consortium of nations who variously lay claim to parts of the continent prohibits mining and military activities, outlines the manner of research that may be conducted, and sets aside the whole of Antarctica as a scientific preserve replete with environmental protections. So strict are the standards that a Climber may not even urinate trail-side en route between camps. One must bottle such waste until reaching the next camp and dispose of it in a specific hole in the ice. It is therefore not surprising many Climbers returning from Antarctica describe it as the most pristine place on earth. In many respects Vinson Massif might qualify as the Mecca of Mountain Lovers.
The Summiter lives to stand on top. He freely admits to disliking the food, the cold, and the pain that is part and parcel of serious mountain climbing. Though the Summiter can and does appreciate the visual beauty around him, it is unlikely he would trouble himself to be there if not for the opportunity to experience the mountains peak. To this person Vinson Massif is the high summit for one of the seven continents, one of The Seven Summits. It goes without saying that anyone who intends to stand at the apex of all seven must summit Vinson Massif. To date, 275 individuals have been able to "touch 'em all," standing atop each of the seven continents. That number grows by about 30 people each year. This makes Vinson Massif nothing short of a compulsory for the serious Summiter. It is likely no other mountain draws these two profiles into more polarized states. For whichever type a Climber is, on Vinson Massif you will only find him in that profiles purist form. There, on the ice, they will need to work together if either is to come away with what led them to Antarctica. Until then these Climbers will look much the same; distracted souls pawing through the junk drawer of their day to day, mumbling to themselves like that wild-haired man on the street, and thinking, always thinking, of the mountain.
